Funerals and Firearms

Varanassi is a fascinating place. The old city near the Ganges is a labyrinth of tiny alleyways; every turn brings a new sight, sound and smell. The alleyways wind down to the numerous ghats, which are teeming with life. Dasaswamedh Ghat is the main ghat for ritual bathing and laundry, a constant hub of activity. An early morning boat ride down the river allows us to experience the magic as the holy Ganges comes to life. Women bathing wrapped in their bright saris, old men meditating peacefully atop stone walls, fishermen preparing nets for the day's work, holy men performing water borne rituals and beggars plying their trade are but a few of the activities of the ghats. Our exploring takes us to the most sacred ghat, Manikarnika, adjoining the Jalsain ghat, burning ghats, home to the intricate funeral rituals.

Funerals, are like most other activities in India, startlingly public. The cremations take place on the riverbanks with the ashes being swept into the holy river. Varanassi is the favored site in all India to die, ensuring entrance to heaven and completion of the series of rebirths. The burning ghats are busy places, and it is virtually impossible to explore the streets of Varanassi without passing many a body making this final journey to the holy Ganges

We also explore Saranath, the site of Lord Buddha's first sermon after his enlightenment. This site is absolutely ancient, dating from about 500 BC. Many artifacts are displayed in an excellent Archaeological Museum in Saranath. The site itself has that otherworldly serenity that seems to permeate Buddhist centers; saffron-robed monks wander the park-like setting amid ancient stupas and shrines, chanting reverberating in haunting monotony, surreal.

Back in Varanassi we attempted to find the "golden temple", which is somewhere in the maze of old city streets, but after getting hopelessly lost we seek a cold drink in a restaurant. I notice that there is a rooftop terrace, so I decide to climb up the seven stories and see if I can spy the illusive temple. Atop the roof I am pleasantly surprised to find the temple in its entire golden splendor in the back yard! I am aiming up for what would surely have been a great shot, when the click of a rifle being cocked sounds from behind me. As I stand frozen, a voice instructs me that pictures of the temple are forbidden today, and I turn to see four khaki-clad soldiers, eyes glued to their shotguns and me. I know when I'm beaten, so my camera goes quickly back into my bag, and I scamper down the stairs atop rather shaky legs. We find out later that they are anticipating clashes between the Hindus and Moslems, and security is tight. I regret the loss of the picture, because the sight of the holy temple clad with close to one ton of gold plating was stupendous...however, the sound of the rifle click echoes still in my ears.

One afternoon, when the temperature on our shaded verandah climbs to 35 degrees directly under a fan, we decide to visit one of the four-star hotels for a swim. The cost for four of us to laze around the pool, is more than a night at our hotel, however, the treat is well received by all, a small price for such luxury. We return to our hotel after dodging a man with performing monkeys dressed up in full costume vying for the rupees of the well-heeled guests. Our final evening in Varanassi is spent chatting on the verandah with the other guest from Canada.